Day 23, 24, 25 October 28th, 29th 30th Eastward Bound with an Itinerary Change

As I type this those of you on the East Coast are experiencing the deluge and quasi-tropical storm that I just drove through for the last three days. I find myself this evening not down South in Asheville, NC as I had planned, but in the little town of Milton, West Virginia, about 30 miles east of Lexington, Kentucky.


“Why”, you may ask. Well, let me put it this way. There are many ways to experience stress in one’s life but one of the prime ways, as I’ve discovered, is driving along Interstates in a pounding rain with gusts of wind coming out of nowhere up to 30 miles per hour. Oh, and of course the fog is so thick one can barely see the red lights of the cars in front of you, and the oncoming headlights suddenly appearing on the other side of the road are something Hollywood could put in a horror movie. The problem with all this is that one has to be “on” 100% of the time. You can’t relax for even an instant. I did at one point, and an 18 wheeler came by me about 10 mph faster than I was going and I found myself blown off onto the right shoulder with my wheels screaming on the warning pavement. It was everything I could do to keep from overcompensating to get back on the road.

In short, it has been an exhausting three days. So much so that day before yesterday I came to the conclusion that I “just want to get home.” Not a cop out mind you…I said before I left that this trip would either take ten years off my life or put on five. I think the latter is true…perhaps maybe even 7 or 8! So, I decided I would have plenty of time to drive down south to visit my folks in Asheville (you may recall, not my folks per se, but their gravesite) and fit the bypass to Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg along the way. Doing that in a regular car will be a LOT easier too!

I do have a couple of minor memories of the last three days that I can share. The first is driving through St. Louis. Yes, it was pouring, but in a crazy moment I reached for my phone and snapped the following picture. If you look closely, you’ll see the famous St. Louis Arch in the distance. That’s as close as I got. I know it’s a magnificent piece of art (I’ve been to St. Louis before on a business trip and seen it up close), but I could only catch this glimpse this time around.

The other anecdote was from today, driving across Kentucky. I-64 is also known as the Bourbon Trail. Indeed, I passed signs marking many of the famous distilleries including: Four Seasons, Bulleit and Buffalo Trace. The latter is known not only for its own label, which is very very good, expensive and hard to find up in the Northeast, but because it is also the distillery where Pappy Van Winkle bourbon is made. For those of you not familiar with PVW…it is perhaps the most sought after Kentucky bourbon in the world; it’s now almost unobtainable and if you were to be able to find some, it’d be outrageously expensive.

Anyhow, as I passed the Buffalo Trace sign I recalled this fun fact.

Next thing I know, I’m at a gas station and attached to the gas station (this is Kentucky after all) is a liquor store. I stroll in and see names of whiskeys I’ve never heard of (my son-in-law, who collects whiskeys, would be hard-pressed to get back on the road after entering this place).

Just for grins and giggles I ask the shopkeeper if she has any Buffalo Trace. “Sure,” she says and goes over to a separate cabinet and pulls out a bottle. “I’m afraid to ask how much you get for that,” I toss out.

“Let’s see,” she says, and when she walks over to the register she looks it up and announces, “$24.99”.

I say to myself, “the last time I saw a bottle of Buffalo Trace back home it was something like $80.00!”

“I’ll take a bottle,” thank you and walked out of the shop a happy camper.

As I continued my drive towards West Virginia I thought to myself, “You idiot, why didn’t you buy more?”

So at the last town before crossing the Ohio River, Ashland, I pull off the Interstate, find another liquor store, and buy another bottle. This one I’ll take home to the family…the other I’m gonna add to MY collection!

Tomorrow I’m going to head back to the same KOA campsite I spent the very first night of this trip at, in Bellefonte, Pennsylvania. With that I will have made the full circle.

As my wife would say, “Two more sleeps” and I’ll be home.

Day 21 and 22 – October 26th and 27th – Eastward Bound

Now it’s all driving driving driving…With the National Parks in my rear view mirror, there’s not much to report on. Even coming through Wolf Creek Pass (at 10,857 feet (3,309 meters) was anticlimactic as I did it before dawn. Later that day, however, I passed San Luis Peak, one of the 14’ers, (there are between 53 AND 58 over 14,000 ft in Colorado depending on how they’re defined).

Today, the 27th, was REALLY boring. Driving several hundred miles through a cloud (i.e. FOG) was tedious and mind-numbing, but I made it to WaKeeney, Kansas. What I WILL say is that the second I crossed into Kansas from Colorado the roads immediately became smooth (much to Hudson’s and my delight) and the PEOPLE became SO friendly. Could it have anything to do with Colorado being a blue state versus Kansas, a Red state? The truck drivers I listened to on my CB radio sure seemed to think so, and I’d have to agree.

Here’s what I looked at all day long…

Onward to Kansas City tomorrow.

Day 20 – October 25th – Four Corners and Mesa Verde

Another beautiful day and a pleasant drive first to Four Corners, then to Mesa Verde, then to Pagosa Springs where we’re spending the night before the long trek East and home.

We’ve pretty much seen all we came to see. There are dozens of other sights along the way back home but we’re now anxious to get across the Great Plains (going through Kansas), to Asheville, NC to visit my parents (possibly for the last time) who retired and are interred there so .

Today was special in checking off two of the last boxes of the sights we wanted to see. First, under a beautiful sky, we stopped at the Four Corners Monument. On the way there, about 70 miles from our route, Shiprock in New Mexico stood out on the horizon.

Four Corners, like Monument Valley, is on an Indian Reservation. We had the place to ourselves…it was early morning, and without a drone it’s hard to take in the whole marker, but it’s there, with all four states represented. Of note was a sign that the Navaho Nation considers the spreading of cremation ashes on tribal lands a desecration and that the practice was not permitted. Apparently, a significant number of people wanted to be buried “in all four states” at once?

From Four Corners we journeyed to Mesa Verde. The place was empty and only one sight (fortunately, the best one) was open. Just as you’ve seen in the pictures, the cliff dwellers’ location was astonishing, and haunting, and inspiring.

And this evening we’re camped by the San Juan River. Here’s the view from our RV.

I continued to be amazed at the beauty, no, the MAJESTY of our country – its spectacular landscapes, its rich and deep history, its variety, its vastness. I’ve said over and over again to passersby: “If you have claustrophobia, all you have to do is come out here!”

Long drives from here on in. Tomorrow we’ll be in La Junta, Colorado.

Day 19 – October 24th – Monument Valley

Well, the day started early. REAL EARLY! We were awakened at 02:15 by an alarm in the RV. Long story short, we ran out of propane – inauspicious since the refrigerator and freezer run on it! So, we got up, packed up and left before the animals were awake! First stop, Tuba City. Guess what? The only gas station in town had a sign on the door, “Sorry, we’re out of propane.” Groan!

Now we’re in trouble… next stop is Monument Valley, and my AllStays app says there ain’t no propane in Monument Valley. So I called the RV park where we planned to spend the night and the owner answered the phone and cheerfully reported that yes, they do have propane. Problem was that she had to call in someone to work the propane fill mechanism and would have to call me back to find out what time I’d have to be at the park to meet up with him. She, meanwhile, was in Oregon, so we’re doing this all by phone.

About an hour into the trip to Monument Valley no word from the RV Park owner. I’m wondering how much it was going to cost me to replace all the food in the fridge.

Lo and behold, I see a seedy, pretty broken down gas station in the middle of nowhere. The station IS the town and there are two big old propane tanks outside. I pull in and ask if they dispense propane to RV’s. “Sure” the sweet Navaho lady (I’m in the middle of Navaho country) behind the counter says, “just let me call Julius to help you.” 2 minutes pass, 5 minutes pass, no Julius. And then I remembered, native indian time is like island time, except slower!

Eventually, Julius shows up and I get my propane tank filled. Turns out the thing is only 9 gallons and I took 8.7. I’ll have to check it more frequently.

Anyhow, on we went to Monument Valley, which is both in Arizona and Utah but all on the Navaho Reservation. Didn’t realize the Navaho were so entrepreneurial! It cost $$$ just to approach the Valley, and if you wanted to go visit John Ford Point, you needed to hire a guide, at a cost of $250 per person.

So we just took photos from the viewing deck. Here are a couple…

The approach to the Valley.

Almost exactly like the photo in Wikipedia except this one was taken with my iPhone!

After Monument Valley it is axiomatic that one must stop where Forrest Gump stopped during his cross-country run. Popular place, this is the best I could do to capture the spot.

Onward to Four Corners, Mesa Verde and Pagosa Springs!

Day 18 – October 23rd – The Grand Canyon, Day 2

Today we toured the South Rim Trail. We walked from Trailer Village to the main Village where the famous hotels are located: (El Tovar and Yavapai Lodge to name a couple). It’s also where the Bright Angel Trail that leads to the bottom of the Canyon begins (or ends depending on which way you’re going!) Not for the faint hearted or those out of shape like me.

From there we took the “Red Bus” all the way from Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest, the furthwest point West, stopping at multiple viewpoints along the way: Maricopa Point, Powell Point (we walked from Powell Point to Hopi Point, to “The Abyss” and on to Hermits Rest. Here’s a sampler of the photos:

On our walk to the Rim Trail.

Rising sun on Maricopa Point.

Sunrise on the Canyon.

Hudson liked the view.

The Bright Angel Trail (note the brave people heading down through the tunnel!)

The Abyss

Hermit’s Rest placard.

Sunset on the Canyon from Hermit’s Rest.

Sigh…on to Monument Valley tomorrow!

Day 17 October 22nd – The Grand Canyon Day 1

Just when you think (after Zion) that things couldn’t get any better, Hudson and I made it to the Grand Canyon today. But before we arrived at the East end of the Park, we were treated to Kaibab National Forest, The Vermillion Cliffs and Navaho Bridge:

Kaibab was beautiful, but marred by fire, possibly the Dragon Bravo conflagration that consumed much of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon?

As we climbed to the summit we saw a sign that said…

And this is the vista we got from the viewing platform. That’s The Grand Staircase – Escalante in the distance!

As we emerged from Kaibab we took in the full view of The Vermillion Cliffs…

We got our first glimpse of the Colorado River at Navaho Bridge. It did not disappoint!

A couple of hours later we finally arrived…

And before we got to our RV campsite, we stopped at all the famous “Points”. First stop: Desert View… WOW!

I only have oh, maybe, 100 more shots taken between here and our campground. I simply don’t have the time or the energy to go through them all and pick out the “best” ones…here are a couple of random ones:

Sigh…it’s just too beautiful for words or photos.

The wildlife in the Park is incredibly un-wild! This fellow was RIGHT IN FRONT OF OUR RV!

And Hudson wanted to play with the girls!

Spending the whole day tomorrow here and will have more pics then.

Day 16 – October 21st – Zion National Park

OMG it really IS that beautiful!

On the way, here’s Red Canyon…

Got there!

The approach to the Zion -Mt. Carmel Tunnel – first…checkerboard mesa…

The scenery just keeps getting better and better…

At the tunnel entrance where all traffic gets halted so I can pass through the CENTER where there’s just enough clearance….!

Going through the tunnel…

AND THIS IS WHAT YOU SEE WHEN YOU EMERGE!

Here’s where I came from… the mouth of the tunnel…

And as you turn to the left, this is what you see…

It’s simply, breathtaking…

One last photo…there are just too many to share…

Sigh…I could spend days, even weeks exploring just this one park. But tomorrow, it’s

ON TO THE GRAND CANYON!

Day 15 – October 20 – Capitol Reef, Grand Staircase Escalante, Bryce Canyon, Utah

A very full day. Exhausted after visiting THREE (count ’em) THREE national parks! Capitol Reef so far my favorite. Had the park to myself, got to see all the major sites including the Petroglyphs, Capitol Dome, Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge. All spectacular!

From there headed to Bryce Canyon by way of Rt 12 (Scenic Byway, All American Road) and Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. Wow, totally unexpected!

Finally, got to Ruby’s RV Park early so decided to go ahead and tour Bryce. With the sun setting it was particularly beautiful…

Some pics:

(RATS! The internet here at Ruby’s is insufficient to post photos and it’s too late to set up Starlink! Sorry…will try again tomorrow!

Ok, here are the pics I wanted to share of Escalante, Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon…enjoy! And because photos are inadequate…put it on your bucket list(s) to BE HERE in person!

On the way to Capitol Reef…

The Grand Wash…always subject to flash floods..

The petroglyphs…

Capitol Gorge

Grand Staircase Escalante – it goes on for miles and miles! Stairs and deep gorges…

Climbing out of Escalante towards Bryce Canyon…

Just one image of hundreds! It’s everything it’s reported to be…

Onward to Zion next!

Day 14 – October 19 Arches National Park, Hanksville, Utah

So, the government shutdown meant that my 7AM reservation to enter Arches was superfluous. There were no park rangers or attendants anywhere. That said, I arrived at the entrance at 7AM just before sunrise, and was treated to a largely empty park, a perfectly cloudless dawn, and more wonders:

Delicate Arch from the closest vantage point I could get to with Hudson.

The Devil’s Garden

Balanced Rock

And again, the words and photos simply can’t capture the magnificence of these National Parks.

Onward to Capitol Reef tomorrow!

Day 14 – October 18 Canyonlands & Moab, Utah

Dropped son off at Provo (International) airport in the morning and then headed south towards Canyonland, Arches and Moab, Utah.

I’m out of adjectives to describe how magnificent these national parks are. Have a 7 AM reservation to get into Arches National Park tomorrow morning so am going to truncate this post and just share a few photos:

Mesa Arch – packed with people, this is the best I could do.

Dogs not allowed so this is just off the road.

One of the many, MANY, vistas in the Park!